The Acquisition of Taste

In response to our latest Freakonomics Radio podcast, “Faking It,” a reader named Kevin Melchionne sent in a paper he wrote for Contemporary Aesthetics, called “Acquired Taste.” I have only skimmed it, but it appears well worth a close read for anyone who cares about this kind of thing. The implication is that some modes of “faking it” may lead to a new degree of authenticity, and pleasure. Of the themes we explored in the podcast, I would say that religion is perhaps the likeliest candidate for this process, although that is not something Melchionne addresses.

I thought of the paper while reading this interesting Times article on cilantro. (I love Harold McGee: food + chemistry = fascinating.) When I first moved to New York, I found cilantro in a surprising number of restaurant dishes, especially in Indian restaurants. To me, it tasted very much like dish soap. (McGee explains why.) But, not wanting to appear a cilantro-hating (or Indian-food-hating) philistine, I powered through those dishes — yeah, I faked it — and came to not only like cilantro, but use it regularly in cooking.

Some highlights from Melchionne’s paper:

Acquired taste is an integral part of the cultivation of taste. In this essay, I identify acquired taste as a form of intentional belief acquisition or adaptive preference formation, distinguishing it from ordinary or discovered taste. This account of acquired taste allows for the role of self-deception in the development of taste. I discuss the value of acquired taste in the overall development of taste as well as the ways that an over-reliance on acquired taste can distort overall taste. …

Why set out on a chase for new satisfactions when my own are immediate and available without effort?

The answer is that acquired tastes can be rewarding. Acquired taste jump-starts new satisfactions where I do not initially find them. Through acquired taste, I grow in my capacity to enjoy what the world has to offer. The shiver down my spine at my first sampling of sushi was not one of delight. I was repelled by the cold slug of fish and the horseradish. Playing along, I smothered the second piece in soy sauce, grateful for the familiar saltiness. Soon, though, I was branching out from California rolls to unagi and uni, tuning into the freshness and subtle variations in flavor. As for [my friend] Rachod’s scotch, I am still trying. Surrounded by advertising, friends, and experts, we are constantly asked, pestered even, to acquire a taste for one thing or another. These entreaties come with the promise of some new satisfaction. But when should I take the promised rewards of acquired taste seriously? When should I dismiss them as not for me and quite possibly utter [expletive deleted]?

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COMMENTS: 32

  1. Ruth e. says:

    indeed, Bernie Madoff has wonderful life plus country club jail. this is a great country, isn’t it?

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  2. Adam says:

    The best example: beer.

    I don’t care who you are, everyone hates beer when they first try it.

    However, you pretend to like it as your peers start drinking it in (in most cases) high school. By the time you actually turn 21, you love it and most light beers go down like water.

    Please don’t turn this into an underage drinking endorsement. Most people start drinking in hs, and it’s common and legal in most of Europe.

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  3. Patrick Basiewicz says:

    I have been big fan of music for years… started with Heavy Metal… and have been working in many music stores in my life, and could observe how my music tastes, those of co-workers and customers changed. I now believe that (almost) anyone can be made to like (almost) anything, given the right mix of stimuli. Of course, level of exposure to the experience (music in this case) is very important. However, peer pressure is a big one, but also a need to differentiate oneself and be seen as a “leader” (as opposed to being a follower) are important too. It was quite funny seeing die hard fans of one music genre switch their tastes quite dramatically at times.

    These days I can say that i like this or that because 1) my friends liked it, 2) i tried to be interesting and different or 3) i genuinely like it. I wish i could say that the latter reason is the most prevailing.

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    • Scott Foster says:

      I have like 3 favorite bands/artist that I listen to all the time despite that fact that I have 20,000 songs on my google music account. The Scorpions, Sammy Hagar and well I have to say that I’am an out of the closet Neil Diamond fan. A few years back I was walking through the CD section caught a glimpse of a Scorpions CD I had never seen. On my way home it seems that over the speakers of my Toyota Hybrid flowed the anthem of the 80s “Rock you like a Hurricane” by the Scorpions and the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra. The CD is called Moment Of Glory: The Scorpions With The Berlin Philharmonic.
      I find myself listening to the symphonic blend with hair band electric guitar riffs more than the original. I think it’s just a sign that I am getting old.

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  4. Ben says:

    So true.

    Fine wine tastes great as long as you’ve seen the lable before you’ve tasted it.

    On a related note: Coke vs. Pepsi. Many people claim they can taste the difference, but few actually can. I’ve participated in a couple of informal tests that confirm this belief.

    Maybe someone out there can direct the Freakonomics team to a formal study of Coke vs. Pepsi or similar that hi-lites the ridiculousness of consumers and the power of brand??

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  5. Olga Lednichenko says:

    Upgrade your tastes – move from Cilantro to Cilantro+Turmeric – and then later on – try Garam -Masala

    Of course the King of the Hill will be curry-with-wine

    and when you get to the top-of-your-taste – you will realize, you cant have just any red wine. Its got to a wine with class – i meant taste. Yes, you guessed it, it comes from a special soil {France – its got to be}

    Cheers
    Olga-lednichenko

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  6. Holly says:

    “a form of intentional belief acquisition” — That’s exactly what I decided at an antique sale one day, years ago. We were standing in the second floor of the Minnesota State Fair Coliseum while my fiancé drooled over yet another “gorgeous” Mission chair.

    I’d argued that the style looked dark, clunky and depressing. “No! No! The gaps between the spindles let air and light through!” I’d pleaded that my leanings toward brocade didn’t endear the leather or plain-fabric upholstery to me.

    His yearning for all things fumed-oak wasn’t changing, and I finally realized, “Well, I haven’t found any styles I like better.” So I decided right there to start liking Mission stuff. We got each other a small oak desk for our wedding.

    And all that Mission stuff looks pretty good in the 1924 house we ended up buying.

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  7. Gearoid says:

    Sorry, I call foul on the Coke v Pepsi thing. There is a huge difference between the two. That said, I find them harder to tell apart in the US than in Europe (all that HFCS perhaps?). You go to a restaurant and ask for a coke and you always know straight away when they’ve given you a pepsi instead. Eww.

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  8. shkj says:

    Some acquired tastes that haven’t caught on in the US:

    1. classical music and opera – Over in Europe and Asia it seems like it is appreciated/enjoyed more. Maybe it has something to do with participation rate?

    2. Clam shell sushi – okay I admit even the Japanese say the following is an acquired taste, but they are impressed and say I have sophisticated tastes when I say I love the following: Giant clam, Abalone, Red Clam, Surf Clam, Japanese Clam (tsubugai), aoyagi, anything ending in …gai (in Japanese) or clam (in English).

    Okay I’ll admit I haven’t acquired the taste for uni. It tastes too oily, fatty and mushy.

    3. Following sports haven’t caught on in (popularity and participation) the US – ski (nordic, alpine, aerials, etc.), soccer (catching on slightly), rugby, fencing, karate (and other self defense arts), hockey, gymnastics and lastly as a recreational sport horseback.

    I don’t know why these sports are popular abroad but maybe it has to do with participation rates more than slick marketing, commentary and sports scholarships and growing up watching sports on tv?

    Football is boring and not as exciting as rugby or hockey. Golf and baseball is too slow and boring too. Not much going on, seriously leave the tele for 5 minutes and then come back. Maybe this says something about the American viewers who enjoy watching these sports? Maybe Americans prefer to appreciate sports through the tele – zone out, relax, live vicariously through the athletes, bond with other viewers rather than bother with ACTUALLY doing the sport? BTW I think it would be interesting to watch the top football teams play rugby against the top rugby teams in Europe/world and top baseball teams play cricket against the top cricket teams in Europe/world.

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